Taj Mahal: a weekend of wonder

Taj Mahal: a weekend of wonder




India for a short break? Simon Horsford heads for the Taj Mahal.
A short break to India seemed a great idea after a good dinner; less so in the cold light of day. But I calculated that by leaving on a Thursday morning, we could get three full days in Delhi and Agra and be back for the start of the following week, when the four-hour time difference would work in our favour.
Which is how we found ourselves driving into the Indian capital just after 10pm local time. The heat was intense even at this late hour, but it was still a welcome change from endless English rain. It's true that India consumes you the moment you arrive. The sights, the smells, the noise and the feeling that nothing ever seems to stand still.
If we needed any more convincing, the road trip to Agra proved the point. After a hearty breakfast of mango, fresh yogurt and scrambled eggs, we set off early for the four-hour journey; the train might have been quicker and more traditional but could hardly have been more entertaining or manic.
After only a few miles nothing surprised us any more, as a motley array of cars, lorries, bicycles, auto-rickshaws, people and animals jostled for position on the road. It was like a sub-continental version of Wacky Races. Families of four, five and more clung to rickety rickshaws, brightly coloured lorries took no prisoners while water buffalo, oxen and even an elephant vied for the limited space on the uneven two- and occasionally three-lane roads. The honking was incessant but oddly, the craziness was remarkably good-natured.
After three hours or so, and keen to make the most of our limited time, we made straight for the "ghost city" of Fatehpur Sikri, the stunning, short-lived imperial capital of the Mughal Emperor Akbar. This walled city, built in 1571 in honour of Sufi saint Salim Christi, stands as a fabulous example of Mughal architecture and the emperor's admirably inclusive approach to religion. Hindus, Muslims and Jesuits all lived at court and Christi even developed a cult called Deen Ilahi, a blend of the main religions.
His vision also extended to Fatehpur Sikri's architecture, which blends Muslim, Hindu and Jain designs among the arches and domes of this red sandstone city. His creation, which lasted as a seat of power for only 14 years, can be seen best by wandering into the magnificent open mosque of Jami Masjid (make a wish by tying a cotton thread around Christi's exquisite tomb) and at the five-storey open pavilion of Panch Mahal.
If Fatephur Sikri had taken the breath away, it was still put in the shade by the next sight - our reason for being there. Off a dusty road in the unremarkable town of Agra we wandered into our hotel, the palatial Oberoi Amarvillas, and caught a first glimpse of the Taj Mahal, just 650 yards away.
There is always a nagging doubt that reputation might not match the reality. No such worries here. The Taj Mahal is strikingly, heart-tuggingly beautiful. Earlier this year, it was voted one of the seven wonders of the modern world after an eight-year, worldwide online poll which apparently attracted 100 million votes.
Rudyard Kipling likened it to an ivory gate through which all dreams pass, and it's this fantasy-like aura that we noticed first the following day at dawn while we wandered around emperor Shah Jahan's memorial to his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.
Our guide, clearly smitten, explained how everything about the Taj has a meaning, from the Islamic inscriptions and the calligraphic panels to the height of the dome and the location of the tomb chamber. Soon we were similarly affected. From our hotel room we saw first-hand how the monument changes colour as the light plays on the marble: from a misty reddish glow in the early morning to a dazzling white in the heat of the sun.
Dodging street hawkers proffering everything from postcards to copies of the Kama Sutra, we ducked into Agra's other gem, its magnificent fort. Again built of red sandstone by the open-minded Akbar, it also betrays other influences, such as the rigorously Islamic taste of Shah Johan (the Pearl Mosque being the best example) - there's even a touch of Britishness, in the shape of the barracks, added in the 19th century. It was on a marble balcony in the fort's Meena bazaar that our guide claimed Mumtaz Mahal had first met Shah Jahan.
Back in Delhi, we realised, inevitably, the shortcomings of such a short break, and wished we had more time to explore. The contrast between New and Old Delhi still astonishes: one British-built, ordered and modern, the other vibrant, daunting and with poverty disturbingly apparent.
With a copy of that week's Time Out: Delhi we contemplated everything from a Bollywood movie and a classical concert to a visit to the mango festival, ruling out the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets. In the end we sat in the beautifully landscaped Mughal gardens looking towards the Lutyens-designed Rashtrapati Bhavan, the former viceroy's house, and spent the last hours of a bright, Sunday afternoon snacking on super-sugary Indian cakes.
Back at my desk soon after lunch the following day, I reflected that, perhaps, there was too much to see in a long weekend. But it had been worth it to witness the hypnotic beauty of the Taj Mahal and to experience, however briefly, the intensity of India. And I didn't have jet lag.
Essentials
Elegant Resorts Worldwide Reservations (01244 897518; www.elegantresorts.co.uk) offers two nights at The Oberoi New Delhi and two nights at The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra, in a Premier Room, from £1,415 per person (based on two sharing) on a room-only basis.
The price includes return economy class flight from Heathrow with British Airways, private car transfers and a return train from Delhi to Agra with Designer Holidays, Elegant Resorts' India-based ground handler.

Heart-smart herbs: tonics to keep your ticker in tip-top shape - includes related articles - The Herbalist

Heart-smart herbs: tonics to keep your ticker in tip-top shape - includes related articles - The Herbalist
HE BEAUTY of a spring meadow in bloom. The profound sense of presence in a grove of redwoods. The appearance of tiny green shoots in a garden--all these things can give flight to the heart and bring us peace. Yet the heart-healing power of the earth's magnificent flora is not just spiritual; it can be physical as well.
Garlic and hawthorn berries are two herbs you can take every day to gently strengthen your heart and circulatory system, and prevent heart disease. A word of warning though: Self-diagnosis is a very hazardous pastime! If you suspect you have any kind of heart condition, see your health-care practitioner. Keep in mind that the favored tools of cardiology--drugs and surgery--do have an appropriate place and can be dramatically successful at treating acute conditions and cardiac emergencies.
Our discussion of garlic and hawthorn berries is limited to their use by generally healthy persons. While well-trained phytotherapists (health-care practitioners clinically trained in the use of botanicals) may have striking results when using them for patients with heart conditions, the layperson's use of these herbs should be as a preventive measure, not a substitute for medication. Like a low-fat vegetarian diet and regular exercise, herbs that benefit the circulatory system are best viewed as one aspect of a healthful lifestyle (see "Prevention Is the Best Medicine," p. 106).
HEALING WITH HAWTHORN BERRIES
Victorian garden edging tiles
Among the many materials used to edge walks, parterres, and planting beds in England in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the most popular was dwarf, or edging, box (Buxus sempervirens Suffruticosa). This dense, slow-growing, evergreen shrub was easy to propagate; it thrived in a variety of growing conditions; and it resisted insects and diseases. Often referred to as Dutch or English box, this popular edging plant was clipped in April and July to maintain the desired height of five to six inches. As late as 1834, John Claudius Loudon's Encyclopoedia of Gardeninq noted that dwarf box was superior to every other edging.
While dwarf box remained in common use throughout the first half of the nineteenth century, by 1843 there are references to the use of tiles as a substitute for box. The earliest of these occurs in Jane Loudon's Gardening for Ladies; and Companion to The Flower Garden:
Edgings are lines of plants, generally evergreen, to separate walks from beds or borders. The plant in most universal use for this purpose in British gardens is the dwarf Box.... Edgings to beds and borders are also formed of other materials, such as lines of bricks, tiles, or states, or narrow strips of stone, or even of wood.. .. Edgings oldies, to be kept securely in their places, should be set in concealed brickwork; otherwise they are apt to get out of place and to have a ragged and temporary appearance. (2)

In pursuit of the perfect pantry - food storage tips in kitchens - Brief Article

Tips for creating a food-storage area that fits your requirements

The pantry is staging a comeback. As more people buy in bulk from discount stores and use a wider array of cooking appliances, they need more kitchen storage space. "Pantries are popular because storage is an absolutely critical issue today," says designer Mary Jo Peterson, consultant to the National Kitchen & Bath Association. "Most people are constantly struggling to find more space in their homes."

Design tips

We asked experts around the West for their tips on organizing pantries.

* Think small. Pantries don't have to be large or expensive. Is there a small, underutilized space in your kitchen that could be converted to this purpose? "Narrow pantries are a good way to use space in your kitchen that otherwise would go to waste," says kitchen designer Michelle Minch of Moving Mountains Design in Denver. Many home stores sell small, inexpensive modular pantry units that you can put together yourself. For instance, IKEA's Elemental Pantry-1 foot wide by 7 feet tall by 2 feet deep-sells for about $120.

* Think versatile. As you and your family grow older, your storage needs are likely to change. That means using adjustable shelves, wire racks that can be added or removed from pantry doors, and multiuse baskets that can be stacked and moved. For additional space efficiency, consider such adaptable items as 12- to 16-inch-wide wire baskets, which can easily hook to and hang from shelves.

Taj Mahal: a weekend of wonder

India for a short break? Simon Horsford heads for the Taj Mahal.

A short break to India seemed a great idea after a good dinner; less so in the cold light of day. But I calculated that by leaving on a Thursday morning, we could get three full days in Delhi and Agra and be back for the start of the following week, when the four-hour time difference would work in our favour.

Which is how we found ourselves driving into the Indian capital just after 10pm local time. The heat was intense even at this late hour, but it was still a welcome change from endless English rain. It's true that India consumes you the moment you arrive. The sights, the smells, the noise and the feeling that nothing ever seems to stand still.

If we needed any more convincing, the road trip to Agra proved the point. After a hearty breakfast of mango, fresh yogurt and scrambled eggs, we set off early for the four-hour journey; the train might have been quicker and more traditional but could hardly have been more entertaining or manic.

After only a few miles nothing surprised us any more, as a motley array of cars, lorries, bicycles, auto-rickshaws, people and animals jostled for position on the road. It was like a sub-continental version of Wacky Races. Families of four, five and more clung to rickety rickshaws, brightly coloured lorries took no prisoners while water buffalo, oxen and even an elephant vied for the limited space on the uneven two- and occasionally three-lane roads. The honking was incessant but oddly, the craziness was remarkably good-natured.

After three hours or so, and keen to make the most of our limited time, we made straight for the "ghost city" of Fatehpur Sikri, the stunning, short-lived imperial capital of the Mughal Emperor Akbar. This walled city, built in 1571 in honour of Sufi saint Salim Christi, stands as a fabulous example of Mughal architecture and the emperor's admirably inclusive approach to religion. Hindus, Muslims and Jesuits all lived at court and Christi even developed a cult called Deen Ilahi, a blend of the main religions.

His vision also extended to Fatehpur Sikri's architecture, which blends Muslim, Hindu and Jain designs among the arches and domes of this red sandstone city. His creation, which lasted as a seat of power for only 14 years, can be seen best by wandering into the magnificent open mosque of Jami Masjid (make a wish by tying a cotton thread around Christi's exquisite tomb) and at the five-storey open pavilion of Panch Mahal.

If Fatephur Sikri had taken the breath away, it was still put in the shade by the next sight - our reason for being there. Off a dusty road in the unremarkable town of Agra we wandered into our hotel, the palatial Oberoi Amarvillas, and caught a first glimpse of the Taj Mahal, just 650 yards away.

There is always a nagging doubt that reputation might not match the reality. No such worries here. The Taj Mahal is strikingly, heart-tuggingly beautiful. Earlier this year, it was voted one of the seven wonders of the modern world after an eight-year, worldwide online poll which apparently attracted 100 million votes.

Rudyard Kipling likened it to an ivory gate through which all dreams pass, and it's this fantasy-like aura that we noticed first the following day at dawn while we wandered around emperor Shah Jahan's memorial to his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.

Our guide, clearly smitten, explained how everything about the Taj has a meaning, from the Islamic inscriptions and the calligraphic panels to the height of the dome and the location of the tomb chamber. Soon we were similarly affected. From our hotel room we saw first-hand how the monument changes colour as the light plays on the marble: from a misty reddish glow in the early morning to a dazzling white in the heat of the sun.

Dodging street hawkers proffering everything from postcards to copies of the Kama Sutra, we ducked into Agra's other gem, its magnificent fort. Again built of red sandstone by the open-minded Akbar, it also betrays other influences, such as the rigorously Islamic taste of Shah Johan (the Pearl Mosque being the best example) - there's even a touch of Britishness, in the shape of the barracks, added in the 19th century. It was on a marble balcony in the fort's Meena bazaar that our guide claimed Mumtaz Mahal had first met Shah Jahan.

Back in Delhi, we realised, inevitably, the shortcomings of such a short break, and wished we had more time to explore. The contrast between New and Old Delhi still astonishes: one British-built, ordered and modern, the other vibrant, daunting and with poverty disturbingly apparent.

With a copy of that week's Time Out: Delhi we contemplated everything from a Bollywood movie and a classical concert to a visit to the mango festival, ruling out the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets. In the end we sat in the beautifully landscaped Mughal gardens looking towards the Lutyens-designed Rashtrapati Bhavan, the former viceroy's house, and spent the last hours of a bright, Sunday afternoon snacking on super-sugary Indian cakes.

Back at my desk soon after lunch the following day, I reflected that, perhaps, there was too much to see in a long weekend. But it had been worth it to witness the hypnotic beauty of the Taj Mahal and to experience, however briefly, the intensity of India. And I didn't have jet lag.

Essentials

Elegant Resorts Worldwide Reservations (01244 897518; www.elegantresorts.co.uk) offers two nights at The Oberoi New Delhi and two nights at The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra, in a Premier Room, from £1,415 per person (based on two sharing) on a room-only basis.

The price includes return economy class flight from Heathrow with British Airways, private car transfers and a return train from Delhi to Agra with Designer Holidays, Elegant Resorts' India-based ground handler.

Travel Tips

There are common sense travel tips, like "Check at least three web sites to get the best deal on plane tickets." Then there are the tips that are more along the line of "secrets." These are the little-known tricks learned by experience. Here are some of the best of those.

Cheap Travel Tips

Find out where local visitors from within the country stay. The cheapest "tourist hotel" I could find when in a resort town in Mexico was $135. I asked a local businessman where to find a cheap room, and got one for $10. There wasn't a swimming pool, but the room was spotless. I was there to travel, not to lounge, so this suited me fine.

Negotiating room charges is common in many countries. In Banos, Ecuador, we negotiated our room rate down from $12 to $6 per night, by paying for several nights in advance. The trick here is to be sure that there are other options, then make your final offer and walk away. Most owners will call you back and lower the price.

Consider hostels, if you don't mind sharing a room. They're much more common overseas. This saves you a lot if you are single, because you pay for the bed. I once spent four days in a hostel for $4 per day, breakfast included. I shared a room with several others, and a TV room with travelers from 16 countries.

Hotels in the U.S. are less likely to negotiate, but we have done it. Most small chain motels are not company-owned, but franchises, so it is usually the owner behind the counter. Paying for several nights in advance, or just starting to walk away, has resulted in discounts for us many times.

Travel is often only as cheap as your plane tickets. For international travel, search the fares to several countries that you would like to visit. Go to the cheapest one now - the others will be cheap another time, and a savings of $500 can buy a few extra days, or an extra mini-vacation some other time.

Anywhere you go, there are things you can do to keep it cheaper. Eat where locals eat, for example, instead of at tourist restaurants. See the free and cheap attractions first. You might have so much fun that you'll never get around to doing the expensive things. Higher prices mean better quality with travel bags, but not necessarily with travel experiences.

Other Travel Tips

E-mail important documents to yourself. These should include a copy of your passport, other IDs, phone numbers of the U.S. Consulate offices where you'll be, and your itinerary or e-tickets for any flights. In this way, even if you are robbed and lose everything, you'll have access to all the important documents from any internet cafe in the world.

On a streetcar, I once had a pocket unzipped and the wallet removed without feeling a thing. Many pickpockets are experts. Fortunately, it was a "decoy" wallet, with nothing but a few pieces of paper, and a fake credit card. Other ways to protect money, cards and documents include putting a bill or two under the inner sole of running shoes, safety-pinning a hidden pocket inside your pants, and hiding cash in several different places.

I see young travelers in other countries walking anywhere they feel like it at night, and then being shocked that they are robbed. Aren't there places in New York or Chicago where you wouldn't walk at night? Ask the locals where it is safe and where it isn't, and trust your intuition when it warns you. Leave expensive clothing and jewelry at the hotel when you are just out for a walk. Safety tricks are the most important travel tips.

rfreethg houhtre

Family yoga in the hands of a goddess

"Hey dad! You look like a purple balloon" was not the sort of comment I had been hoping for when I signed up my wife and eight-year-old son for a week's family yoga holiday in Cyprus. I was in the small exercise studio of the Anassa Hotel trying to ease my legs over my head after a strenuous shoulder stand (from Salamba Sarvangasana to Halasana in yoga speak). It was our final class and I wanted to show off to my son, Ben, and our instructor, lovely Liitsa - the Nordic goddess.

	All karma: Ben Morris practises his yogic skills at the Anassa Hotel

Deflated from hero dad to Homer Simpson, I collapsed in a heap while Ben moved on effortlessly to the next position. Watching from the sidelines, my wife giggled into her ginger tea as Liitsa, sounding like a sympathetic sat-nav, carried on seamlessly with the class.

Yogic enlightenment, or even just a few supple tummy muscles, seemed a long way off. But as I lay sprawled on my mat I did at least feel a little taller, less hunched up, and pleased that the Morris family had been introduced to the world of yoga via the Trojan horse of a luxurious five-star hotel.

The fixers

The week's holiday was organised by a London-based outfit called Yogoloji, which specialises in intimate yoga breaks in beautiful surroundings. As well as morning and evening classes for adults, its Anassa package included a children's yoga programme, bespoke yoga therapy sessions and daily holistic treatments.

The price tag of £940 per adult doesn't include flights, accommodation or meals. Full board is compulsory at an extra cost of £475 per person for the week. For a wine-loving omnivore like myself the option of a specially designed detox menu didn't make the deal any more attractive. Just when did not ordering the Châteauneuf-du-Pape and avoiding the coffee, cheese and beef steaks become so expensive?

The hotel

The real star of the show was the hotel. When we arrived at the Anassa, after a long drive from Larnaca to the western corner of the island, our driver introduced the hotel as a "she". He explained that in ancient Greek "Anassa" means "queen" or "grande dame". Inside, the hotel began to live up to its regal title. The first impression is of a five-star monastery where no expense has been spared on materials (marble, sandstone and stained glass), craftsmanship or staff.

The lobby and connecting corridors have vaulted ceilings, full-sized icons on the walls and minimalist fountains. The good taste continues in the central bars and restaurants beyond to the villas laid out as an idealised Cypriot village. There are winding pathways and gentle slopes edged with soft Mediterranean landscaping that at a glance look completely natural - almost wild. The design is restricted to a comfortable human scale and everything is directed towards the sweeping beauty of the Chrysochou Bay and the hills of the Akamas Peninsula beyond.

There is even a real Cypriot church within the hotel grounds, so I was not surprised to see a group of orthodox monks enjoying a deluxe buffet breakfast in the main restaurant one morning. It was this mixture of style and spirituality that formed the perfect backdrop for our introduction to yoga-lite. Believe me, if there are plans to form a new religion based around hotels like the Anassa, I would be the first convert.

The yoga

There were two group yoga classes every day: a dynamic morning class at 7.30, with lots of sun salutations and stretching, and a slower, more meditative evening class at 5.30. I found the early starts a torture, but apparently they're the norm in most yoga retreats and it's probably wise to get the stretching over with before tucking into your full English breakfast.

As for the classes themselves, apart from the few moments when I felt like a Guantanamo Bay prisoner crouched on the floor with my hands behind my head and the odd bit of gratuitous sermonising, I really enjoyed the yoga.

Liisa Halme, our instructor from Finland, gently talked us through the exercises, offering the occasional guiding hand towards a decent "upward-facing dog" or a well balanced "bridge". I particularly liked it when she wore her Dolce & Gabbana movie-star sunglasses and harem trousers for our outdoor morning session. The outfit seemed to sum up the style of our glamorous yoga retreat.

The children's yoga

Despite their irksome titles, the Teeny Yogini (three- to six-year-olds) and the Teen Yogini (seven- to 14-year-olds) classes on offer seemed like a great way of getting young people painlessly involved in exercising. The sessions were structured around a narrative as the children imitated animals or pretended to be snow-boarders or aeroplanes while mirroring the classic yoga poses. The yogic twist helps develop concentration, balance and posture - especially useful after all those hours crouched over a Nintendo DS.

was also glad to see there was an emphasis upon relaxation. Ben and I agreed that our favourite part was at the end class - when tucked up beneath a marshmallow of a duvet you can gently meditate, clear your mind or even doze off.

All good stuff, except that there were no other takers for the teen Yogini, so Ben had the choice of doing it on his own or teaming up with old balloon-face dad. The lack of other children on the retreat also caused problems with child-care during the adult sessions. An early start or hanging around late in the children's club is fine if you are with your mates. If it is just you and a disgruntled cleaner watching a video then it's a little sad. For this reason, it is well worth checking that there are definitely other children of your child's age on the course before you book.

The therapies

The mixed bag of Ayurvedic consultation, yoga therapy, Chinese medicine, acupuncture, Abyhanga and Marma massage on offer from the ''Yogolojees'' (please!) did remind me of a restaurant I know in Southall. On the ground floor you can order biryani, while in the basement you can get a Chinese takeaway and upstairs there's pizza and pasta. All served on the same light blue plates by the same smiling Pakistani staff.

To be fair, my wife tells me that this mix-and-match approach to treatments is not unusual in a spa and she found the acupuncturist, Bobby Joy, impressive, experienced and very helpful.

The hotel's Thalasso spa also offers an extensive range of treatments so popular it's not unusual for them all to be booked before you have even unpacked your suitcase. In light of this, Yogoloji's day packages (£136 per person) include a treatment and two yoga sessions, and are a great way to ensure you do get a half-decent massage.

Bespoke bonuses

The Anassa has its own resident yoga teacher and therapist. Raven-haired Nana Georgiou looks every inch the exotic eastern mystic that one would hope to find teaching yoga in a retreat. She runs daily group classes, covering everything from Chakra meditation to dynamic detox and her own Aqua yoga (all £14 per person).

She also offers specially designed personal sessions and family yoga (£47), and even gives group yoga sessions free of charge in the children's club. The flexibility, choice and value for money make Nana's sessions the best bespoke yoga on offer at the hotel.

Escapes from the sanctuary

If you want to escape the Anassa, don't disturb your new-found karma by visiting the sprawling mess of Paphos. Instead, head north-west to the beautiful Akamas peninsula. Unlike many parts of Cyprus it's an unspoilt natural haven. Sadly, property developments are popping up at the fringes of the peninsula like Vandals at the gates of Rome, so visit now while it's still pristine. The hotel offers guided hikes, Jeep safaris or chartered yachts to explore the natural beauty of the area.

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